Yemen may be going through a war but many bright spots remain.
In the capital Sana’a, the Madhash café stands out for its signature tea.
Madhash has replaced other cultural hubs that were shut down by war. Today, the café is a melting pot of cultures and ideas where intellectual discourse happens over its popular beverage.
”The cafe has become once again a hub for poets, authors and intellectuals. For a long while, cultural centres played that role but these shut down due to the war. More recently, the café has regained this status, hosting debates and cultural functions,” said Yemeni poet Ziad al-Qahm.
Despite being poor, thousands of African migrants arrive each year en route to destinations elsewhere. On their stop in Sana’a, some have discovered Madhash.
Ethiopian migrant Ali Ibrahim seeks to travel to Europe. As he contemplates the next leg of his trip, he says the café reminds him of home.
”When we first came to Yemen, we had no money to even get something to drink. The Yemenis hosted us and were kind to us. This was five years ago. And the coffee I have here is so much like the coffee I had back home,” said Ali.
African migrants arriving in Sanaa, mostly eye oil-rich Gulf countries further north, but many end up settling in Yemen. They join the locals in appreciating Madhash’s spiced chai, like Somali Ahmed Nour Ali, a regular visitor throughout his decades-long stay in Yemen.
ِ”We arrived here in the 1990s, in the earlier days of Somalia’s wars. We found life here comfortable, and have been living alongside our Yemeni brethren for 33 years. We won’t go anywhere. We’re staying here,” Ali emphasized.
Despite Yemen’s many challenges, daily life in Madhash remains unchanged for locals and Africans alike.
