Once seen largely as traditional attire, Ankara, a Nigerian fabric, has transcended borders to become a global fashion statement, commanding the spotlight at parties, red carpets, and cultural events around the world. Its bold prints, vibrant colours, and versatile designs now rival some of the most celebrated luxury fabrics, redefining style and identity for Nigerians at home and in the diaspora.
From Lagos to London, Accra to Atlanta, Ankara has become a symbol of pride and creativity, worn not only by Africans but increasingly embraced by international celebrities and fashion enthusiasts. Its growing influence reflects the fusion of heritage and innovation, showing how Nigerian fabrics are rewriting the rules of global fashion while keeping cultural authenticity intact.
Speaking with THISDAY, the CEO of OJ Inspired, Tobiloba Adegoke, noted that Ankara’s popularity is rooted in its ability to blend culture with glamour. “Ankara is more than fabric; it’s history, identity, and bold storytelling in colours and patterns.
“When a young woman in Miami or Toronto wears my dress to prom, she’s not just dressed up, she’s carrying a piece of Nigeria with her.”
Adegoke, whose brand exports to the US, Canada, and Europe, said orders have grown exponentially thanks to Instagram and TikTok.
“Five years ago, we were exporting in tens. Now, we’re shipping in hundreds every season,” he said. “Once someone goes viral in Ankara, we get a flood of inquiries. The beauty is, no two pieces are alike. Each client gets a unique cultural statement.
“Ankara is no longer just for local Owambe parties. It’s for the world. Each piece carries the story of Africa: boldness, resilience, culture. When someone in London or Atlanta wears my dress, they’re not just making a fashion statement. They’re telling people, ‘This is who I am and where I come from.’”
For Adegoke, the global embrace of Ankara is deeply personal. “There was a time when people saw Ankara as ‘too African’ or not polished enough for international events. Today, it’s the opposite; people crave it because it’s authentic. The world is tired of copy-and-paste fashion. They want originality, and we’ve got that in abundance.”
He added that demand from the diaspora has surged, particularly among second-generation Africans eager to connect with their heritage. “A lot of my international clients are young people who want their clothes to speak. They’ll say, ‘Make me a Cinderella dress, but make it African.’ And when the photos hit Instagram, everyone wants the same thing.”
Also speaking, the CEO of DaStylz House of Fashion, David Omobolanle, noted that the global rise of Ankara is nothing short of a revolution. “Nigerian fabrics are now competing with, and in many cases outshining, Western couture on the global stage,” he said.
“Our bold colours, intricate designs, and hand-finished detailing stand out at parties where everyone else is in predictable satin or silk.”
Omobolanle, who has shipped over 400 Ankara outfits abroad within the last 22 months, said prom dresses make up the bulk of his international business.
According to Omobolanle, “Ankara’s strength lies in its adaptability. It works in any setting. I can design a ball gown, a cocktail dress, or even a corporate suit with Ankara, and it still makes a statement. The patterns are fearless, the colours command attention, and the cultural roots give it weight. Western fabrics often feel repetitive; Ankara is alive.
“In New York, Chicago, and even smaller towns in Texas, teenagers are choosing Ankara gowns for their big night. Parents tell me their daughters win ‘Best Dressed’ awards, sometimes even prom queen titles, just because the dresses are so unique,” he explained.
Both designers agree that Ankara’s global appeal lies in its versatility. “It works for luxury events, red carpets, birthday dinners, even weddings,” Adegoke said. “And unlike mass-produced Western gowns, ours carry cultural depth. It’s elegance with identity.”
But the boom isn’t without challenges. Shipping delays, high tariffs, and rising fabric costs often threaten margins. Omobolanle admitted: “Sometimes I’m up at 3 am managing logistics to make sure a gown gets to California before prom night. It’s stressful, but when I see the videos of my clients twirling in Ankara, and of course, the Naira equivalent of the FX service charge, it’s worth it.”
Despite obstacles, both designers are optimistic. “Ankara has gone from local to global, and it’s unstoppable now,” Adegoke said. “In the next five years, I believe we’ll see Ankara gowns on Hollywood red carpets and even the Met Gala.”
“Nigerian fabrics are no longer guests at the party, we’re becoming the life of the party,” Omobolanle added.
Credit: Thisday
